{"id":6657,"date":"2025-10-14T17:27:33","date_gmt":"2025-10-14T17:27:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/indianinsightnews.com\/?p=6657"},"modified":"2025-10-15T01:21:17","modified_gmt":"2025-10-15T01:21:17","slug":"the-bell-still-tolls-in-haridwar-a-journey-from-memory-to-mountain","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/indianinsightnews.com\/?p=6657","title":{"rendered":"The Bell Still Tolls in Haridwar: A Journey from Memory to Mountain."},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Murali Kottakkal<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n


It was long ago, in the intoxicating days of youth and literature, that I first read M. Mukundan\u2019s novel, \u2018Haridwaril Manimuzhangunnu\u2019 (The Bell Tolls in Haridwar). Since then, a silent wish had taken root\u2014to visit this place, just like the novel\u2019s character, Rameshan. Years have flown by. Life\u2019s necessities replaced youthful indulgences, and the direction of my journey shifted. Now, after what feels like an eternity, I was finally setting off\u2014to Mukundan’s Haridwar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sitting on the train (Thiruvananthapuram to Yog Nagari Rishikesh), the memories flowed. We were a group of eight: Raju, his wife Reena, and daughter Anagha (Raju Mohan from Kottakkal); Co-operator Hareeshwaran and Usha Chechi (from Tirur); Ujjwal (the Chenda artist); and my wife Asha and I. Our compartment was full of children returning from a Goa tour and heading to Jaipur. Amidst their joyful noise, I dreamt of the Haridwar of my memory, the one I\u2019d read and almost forgotten.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Day 1: Gateway to Heaven
On October 5, 2025, we alighted in Haridwar around noon. We had arrived at the ‘Gateway to Heaven’. For lunch, we enjoyed a simple, delicious meal of kanji (rice gruel) and green gram curry at the Ayyappa Temple run by Raju\u2019s acquaintance, Vishnu Namboothiri.
The evening was dedicated to the Holy Ganga: a dip in its sacred waters, a visit to the Mansa Devi Temple atop the hill, and witnessing the spectacular Ganga Aarti. I felt a stirring within me\u2014a desire to pray, a long-dormant wish to see God. Our guide was a Swamiji, a friend of Raju’s, whose sincere guidance made our journey seamless.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Road to Kedarnath
Day 2: Troubles and Triumphs on the Trail
At 7 a.m. the next day, we left Haridwar for Sona Prayag, a 265 km journey. We had hired a Traveller van. Our lunch, prepared by the Swamiji on the banks of the Ganga, was a unique experience. However, the old van, a real wreck, broke down repeatedly, testing our patience early on.
The Swamiji was insistent that we eat no outside food, leading to us preparing meals by riverbanks or in deserted spots. This turned out to be a blessing, as none of us suffered any stomach trouble. During one of the breakdowns, we sat inside the van, making and baking chapatis\u2014a scene straight out of the movie Parakkum Thalika! We finally abandoned the faulty vehicle, booked a room for the night, and a new van arrived the next morning.
The journey resumed. We stopped to pray at the Triyuginarayan Temple and Guptakashi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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